Neil & Marsha RTW 16th Jan 2006 - 19th Jan 2006 Site updated: 21st Jan 2006 Get Jealous Home
We arrived into Pondicherry later on that afternoon suprisingly refreshed. Both taken back by the contrasting scenery of the rest of India and Pondicherry. Its as almost if we have crossed the border into another country. No more polluted India, with lots of people, cars, temples, squalor, and vibrant colours. Up until 50 years ago Pondicherry was still ruled by France, which explains how different the state is. It is a very serene, chilled out state. Full of long windy tree lined streets. Lots of pastel coloured French villas litter the roads. Plenty of French eateries and bakeries.
The French language is still practised by many of the locals and expats that live here too. However, dont be fooled like us into thinking that Pondi has no trace of the Indian way of life. If you cross the canal you enter the Indian area of Pondi which brings us back to what we are used to, frenetic, bustling, busy India. The town is dominated by a huge promenade which stretches the whole length of the town and beyond. The promenade is defintely popular with the locals who power walk and conduct their exercises before sunrise. At sunset people walk down the promenade enjoying their candy floss bought from one of the many whallahs. You cannot actually take a dip in the ocean in Pondi as there is no beach, but few miles down the coast you can splash to your hearts content in neighbouring Auroville.
We were lucky enough, (or not as I later discovered), to get acomnodation in Park Guest House which is owned by Sri Aurobindo Ashram.The ashram was founded by Sri Aurobindo and later run by the Mother. The huge guest house dominates the end of the promenade. It is right on the waters edge, set amongst a tropical garden which people use to practise their yoga and meditation. We checked into their last room, a bargain at two pounds. As with all ashrams there are rules to abide and respect, mainly no drinking alcohol, no smoking, no drugs and a 10.30pm curfew. The last rule was easy enough as everything closes down at 9pm. Pictures of Mother and Aurobindo are littered throughout the grounds, even above our beds two ominous looking figures towered above us.
The ashram cooks up some tasty snacks and brekkie in their restaurant which over looks the ocean. Such a nice location to sip your morning coffee.The guest house attracts a hotch potch of clientele, from the tree huggers all dressed in white, to families on holiday. At the crack of dawn you will hear the faint rustling of the ashram workers starting their daily chores. Hot water is only provided between certain hours, usually in huge iron buckets, so distributing the buckets is usually the workers first task. After nosh we hired two rickety bikes and took off to explore. We visited the Botanical Gardens which is reputedly Pondis only area of greenery. Very pleasant walk around the gardens. We wandered some of the leafy streets. Typically confusing with road names such as Rue De la Marine on one end, and named a completely different French name at the other end.
We did go to the ashram which was full of people queuing to get into the grounds. We were ushered barefooted into the ashram garden where Mother's tomb and Aurobindo's tomb was placed. Lots of people were meditating and praying in the gardens. Some people clinging onto the tomb, muttering words of prayer. The experence didnt enlighten our soul but it certainly was an oasis of calm within the ashram walls. And we musnt forget to mention the valuable work the ashram does for the community.
On day two we headed out down the coast to explore more of the area. I think its the closest we have got to Indian life as we cycled through villages and towns. Most of the locals survive from the sea, so we passed lots of fishermen bringing in their daily catch and repairing their nets. Back on the bikes in the afternoon to explore the neighbouring town of Auroville where lots of community developments are under way, another idea that orginated from the ashram.
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